Oilem Latest News and Articles

Turbo Cleaning and Turbo Cleaners

by Oilem Published on Wednesday, August 21st, 2013

Not a week passes where we are not asked by a consumer or repair garage to recommend a solution for clogged turbo chargers, particularly variable vane equipped units on diesel engines.

While turbo chargers offer enhanced performance for both petrol and diesel vehicles, they’re not without their problems. One of those is maintenance and cleaning – carbon can build up over time and use, threatening the operation of the turbo, as well as other post-combustion components in the engine.

Understanding the Situation:

Let’s address why turbo chargers clog up or accumulate deposits. A turbo is essentially driven by exhaust gases. These gases are the result of the combustion process and contain particulates, hydrocarbons and even oil that have entered the system. What happens is that these particulates build up on the hot side of the turbo. The carbon can also build up on the waste gate, which creates problems for the turbo actuator in controlling boost. The waste gate can then stick, which means the solenoid that controls the actuator is affected because it’s trying to draw more current than it’s designed for. The ECU picks up this condition and throws a warning light, putting the vehicle in limp mode.

With diesel engines, the most common issue is the accumulation of carbon on the variable vanes mechanism resulting in sticking or complete seizure. This creates either an under-boost or over-boost condition usually resulting in an engine warning light and tripping the limp home mode, restricting the vehicle to low power and 2.5k to 3k RPM.

Why do turbo chargers accumulate deposits in the first place?

1. Accumulated deposits in the fuel system and combustion area will result in a lower quality of combustion resulting in additional hydrocarbons that will deposit in the post combustion areas such as the turbo charger.

2. Driving styles and type of journeys. Stop start driving and/or short trips will take its toll as the engine is unable to reach sufficient temperature to optimise the quality of combustion and/or help burn off existing carbon deposits. More hydrocarbons are produced whilst the engine is in its warm up cycle.

3. Oil – this is the missing link. Many believe that post combustion carbonaceous deposits are the result of uncombusted fuel only. This is not true. On diesel vehicles especially, the carbon is a mix of fuel AND oil. Oil bypassing the piston rings will end up in the combustion chamber, will not be fully combusted and will end up being deposited in the post combustion areas such as the turbo, DPF, EGR etc. Oil recirculating from the crankcase breather system can also deposit within the intake system.

From the above you can see that there are a number of contributory factors.

Turbo Carbon Removal:

If you are unfortunate enough to have a turbo diagnosed with excessive carbon build-up then there are a number of options available to you. Firstly, politely decline any suggestion that the turbo must be replaced unless the unit is proven to be faulty, damaged or excessively worn. Excessive carbon does not fall into any of these categories.

It is equally important to address the cause as well as any remedial work or treatments. It’s pointless tackling the carbon on the turbo directly without ensuring the fuel system is running efficiently, because the chances are high that the turbo will just accumulate more carbon immediately after cleaning if the fuel system isn’t clean and operating properly. I hear time and time again of garages replacing turbos only for the same problem to reoccur shortly after with the newly replaced unit. This may be profitable for the garage but not very cost effective or convenient for the customer.

Therefore, when looking to resolve this issue, the first thing you need to do is make sure the fuel system is clean and operating correctly. There are a variety of products on the market that will achieve this.

In tank fuel cleaners:

Forget the cheap cleaners as these rely on the principle of natural cleaning through carbon scavenging. If you want to learn a bit more about that, read our article “EGR cleaning and EGR Cleaners”. What these products do is clean the fuel system and improve the quality of the combustion process, which result in cleaner exhaust gases. These cleaner exhaust gases, combined with heat, can naturally scavenge and clean the carbon from all post-combustion areas, including the turbo. This is somewhat effective but you achieve the same results from a high quality fuel system cleaner.

If a fuel system cleaner doesn’t fully resolve the problem then you could try a dedicated turbo cleaner. Again, there are many products available but most share a common flaw – they are post combustion fuel catalysts that only address post combustion carbon leaving the fuel system alone.

The best solution is a chemistry that combines modern high-strength detergents to ensure the fuel system is clean AND fuel borne catalyst technology to remove and burn off post combustion carbons.

For this we recommend the Archoil AR6400-D MAX as it uses various detergents and fuel borne catalyst technology that survives the combustion process and is still active post combustion to provide the best chance of removing deposits. If AR6400-D doesn’t work then no other fuel based turbo cleaner will make a difference.

This type of approach works 8/10 times, which is the highest success rate we have seen by far. Also remember that heat is your friend and occasionally dropping a gear or two to increase temperatures will assist the cleaning process.

If unsuccessful, then the only other option (other than cleaning the turbo in situ or removing it) is to try an aerosol based cleaner than is sprayed into the air intake. The good ones contain a blend of chemicals, some of which survive the combustion process and reach the turbo. For this we recommend Ecotec Turbo Net & EGR Cleaner. It is best used when the engine is cold as more product will reach the turbo.

Only those turbos that are severely seized with a combination of solidified fuel and oil-based carbonaceous deposits may not respond to these treatments. If unsuccessful then the only solution is the remove the turbo for manual cleaning.

Remove turbo for cleaning:

As a last resort the turbo will need to be removed and professionally cleaned using the correct detergents.

Prevention and Maintenance:

Carrying out the below will provide the best possible chance of preventing deposit build-up and potential malfunction of the turbo charger.

1. Keep the fuel system and combustion area running efficiently by using a high quality fuel system cleaner and carbon remover such as Archoil AR6400-D and follow up regularly with AR6900-D MAX. This will improve the quality of combustion and reduce the amount of recirculating hydrocarbons, even when the engine is cold!

2. Use the best quality oil possible or at the very least fortify it with an additive such as Archoil AR9100. Not only will this protect the turbo against wear but it will keep the crankcase clean, maintain engine compression (this reduces oil bypassing the piston rings) and help prevent adhesion within the intake system, turbo and EGR even if it does bypass the rings or crankcase breather system.

3. If you suspect a reduction of cylinder compression then use a professional engine flush or advanced nano cleaner such as Archoil AR2300, followed by an oil change. It is often postulated that compression loss is the result of engine (piston/rings/cylinder) wear. This is not always the case. Most compression loss conditions are actually the result of deposit build-up on the piston rings and/or skirts. The build-up then forces the rings from the bore and thus reduces engine compression. A professional flush will resolve this quickly and effectively. A high quality oil and/or nano additive pack such as AR2300 or AR9100 will then prevent any future deposit build-up or compression loss.

4. Occasionally drop down a gear or two to increase the revs and thus increase the temperature. Heat is your best friend when it comes to removing carbon. This is also important when using any fuel additives as it will enhance the efficacy of the cleaning chemistry.

Many oils, particularly expensive fully synthetic oils that have low SAP or low ash content designed for DPF-equipped vehicles, do not have sufficient quality or enough additive strength to keep the turbo well lubricated for the extended oil drain cycles that we now see. Some are supposedly designed to last up to and beyond 20,000 miles. However, from our experience and oil analysis, we are finding that these oils begin to struggle long before that mileage is reached.

I would recommend researching your engine and vehicle to understand the susceptibility of the turbo charger to failure or deposit accumulation. If there are documented cases of either of these, we advise that you use the appropriate lubricants and additives to ensure your vehicle does not encounter the same problems. If you need any further advice on this matter then please don’t hesitate to contact us.

Summary of Product Links:

High strength Fuel System, Turbo Cleaner & Carbon Remover
AR6400-D MAX

Professional use “Spray into Intake” Turbo Cleaners
EcoTec Turbo & EGR Cleaner

Pro Fuel Conditioner to Keep System Clean & Lower Hydrocarbon Build-up
AR6900-D MAX

Oil Additive to reduce oil-based carbon build-up
AR9100

Please note that we no longer support the use of the Bardahl Turbo Cleaner

50 thoughts on “Turbo Cleaning and Turbo Cleaners”

Daniel says:

May 3, 2017 at 4:35 pm

Hi Andy. Are your products available in South Africa at all please ? Many thanks. Daniel

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  May 8, 2017 at 9:56 am
  
  Hi, email powerenhancer support and we’ll see what we can do.
  
  Reply
Graham says:

February 21, 2017 at 4:11 pm

My son has a Mitsubishi Outlander diesel that goes into limp home mode if he accelerates hard. The local agent says he needs a new turbo. He does do quite a few short journeys and I suspect it could be a DPF problem but I have given him AR6400 to add when he next does a long journey as this should also help if it is the turbo. Does this sound a sensible approach and is there anything else he should consider?

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  February 21, 2017 at 4:51 pm
  
  Yes it does. I would also combine it with dropping the revs, using the turbo etc. to help generate addional heat.
  
  Reply
  1. Graham says:
    
    February 21, 2017 at 5:54 pm
    
    Thanks Andy. Do you mean dropping the revs but remaining in a higher gear to increase load? Does that make the turbo kick in? I think he would prefer to avoid limp home mode which seems to occur with higher revs.
    
    Reply
    1. Oilem says:
      
      February 22, 2017 at 12:48 pm
      
      I meant dropping the gears to increase revs. Do what you can. If it keeps hitting limp home mode then try not to engage the turbo but getting the revs up on occasion is important.
      
      Reply
      1. Graham says:
        
        February 22, 2017 at 3:42 pm
        
        Thanks Andy.he is going for a longish trip this weekend – min 90 mins – so he will give it a go then. I’ll let you know what happens. Great service by the way.
      2. Graham says:
        
        March 2, 2017 at 4:20 pm
        
        He’s used half a tank so far but still hits limp home when accelerating hard. Might Techron D be the next step if the 6400D fails to clear the problem?
Rick Car says:

November 30, 2016 at 9:50 am

I have an alfa romeo 159 1.9 diesel.
The engine check light came on and the car went into limp mode yesterday with the fault code P0237 which relates to sticky turbo vanes.
Please would you recommend a treatment for this issue preferably without to much spanner work.
Many thanks
Rick

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  November 30, 2016 at 10:02 am
  
  AR6400-D MAX and/or Ecotec Turbo Net Cleaner. If these don’t work then it will require removal.
  
  Reply
2. Turbo Problem says:
  
  December 13, 2016 at 11:22 pm
  
  I have a 2 litre 2006 Mazda 6. Since I bought the car 6 months ago it has always made a distinct whirring sound when the turbo was working. Yesterday I put some Redex in before filling up with diesel, and the car seemed to lose a power, then was fine again but kicking out a lot of smoke. Today on the way to work it was kicking out a lot of smoke again, and on the way back home the whirring sound completely stopped and there was a lot less power available like the turbo had died. Any suggestions?
  
  Reply
  1. Oilem says:
    
    January 4, 2017 at 11:08 am
    
    Hi, based on the info provided it is difficult to diagnose. I would recommend a professional inspection.
    
    Reply
  2. Steve says:
    
    January 8, 2017 at 12:22 pm
    
    When my turbo did that there was a hole in the egr rubber pipe
    
    Reply
Sharief says:

September 22, 2016 at 5:57 pm

Hi…

Getting desperate. Have a bmw 320d E90 2009 LCi. Intermittent flat spot from about 2000 to 3000 rpm. Had replaced the intake manifold done carbon cleaning, changed egr valve (friends and his car drives fine), replaced MAF sensor and Decat. Usually when cold she is perfect then after about 10km the flat spot starts especially when cruising and then planting my foot. It would kick down a gear and at a snails pace crawl from 2000 to 3000 rpm. Pls help….

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  September 25, 2016 at 11:01 am
  
  Have you tried any fuel cleaner?
  
  Reply
  1. Sharief says:
    
    September 29, 2016 at 4:46 pm
    
    Hi
    
    Yes 1st tried some diesel injector cleaner and the a week ago popped in a bottle of wynns diesel turbo cleaner. Also had a friend’s Map sensor in mine for 2 days. Still intermittent. So wondering if it could be turbo related or even perhaps the ecu itself
    
    Reply
    1. Oilem says:
      
      October 3, 2016 at 11:06 am
      
      Changed fuel filter?
      
      Reply
Shaun says:

September 21, 2016 at 7:38 pm

Hi, my 2.2 diesel jaguar xtype is experiencing flat spots on acceleration. Sometimes, it’s quite rhythmic. Generally, the power is not what it should be whether it’s in a flat spot or not. Also, whenever there is a flat spot, you can hear the boost being blown off. Not seen any split pipes, no engine management lights and no fault code. It was suggested there may be a carbon build up in the turbo. Could this be the reason and if so, what would be most suitable to use?

Thanks

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  September 22, 2016 at 2:10 pm
  
  I would try a bottle of AR6400-D Max as a process of elimination.
  
  Reply
Dale Vandergriff says:

August 26, 2016 at 2:40 am

2010 Cummings diesel 117000miles. Engine light is on. Engine scan indicates possibility some carbon buildup. Dealer recommend to drive it like no tomorrow to remove any carbon buildup. Still have good power and torque. Just the engine light comes and goes. What do you recommend to use to help fix this
problem. Thanks Dale Vandergriff

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  August 26, 2016 at 9:20 am
  
  I would add a bottle of AR6400-D combined with the spirited drive recommended by the dealer.
  
  Reply
Andy B says:

June 5, 2016 at 8:58 am

Great article which I found very informative. I have a 2011 Renault Megane 1.5Dci with 53000 miles on the clock. I do motorway miles everyday (about 30 miles each way) so the engine is getting a good run. I don’t have any current problems with the turbo or diesel system as yet and would like to keep it that way, so what do you recommend? I believe it’s a vv turbo on these. Thanks in advance, Andy

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  June 6, 2016 at 9:22 am
  
  Hi, AR6200 (now AR6900-D MAX) or other high quality fuel conditioner with catalyst is always a good start on those engines.
  
  Reply
Ian Raines says:

May 30, 2016 at 5:37 pm

Hi Andy and thanks for the advice.
I have a 2008 reg 2204cc diesel Honda CRV currently at 96k miles. At the moment we are doing around 12k miles p.a. including around 1500 miles p.a. at 130kph on French motorways using cruise control. Three times in five years the AA have diagnosed turbo overboost. The last time was a few days ago when we were in France and about 60 miles from Le Havre port. The Honda dealer didn’t have a clue before so I’m not going to them again especially as they didn’t use a new washer on the Diff plug. Lubricant leaked 2 days before a previous trip to France!
Which in tank product would you recommend to clean and prevent build up and how often should it be used?
Thanks again.

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  May 31, 2016 at 9:29 am
  
  Hi, use the best quality GENUINE synthetic (group 5/6 base stock) oil you can afford and continuous use of a high quality fuel conditioner that contains a catalyst such as AR6200 or the new AR6900-D Max. A catalyst will really help with that carbon.
  
  Reply
Nick holbrook says:

May 30, 2016 at 7:09 am

Hi

I have a problem with my t5 2.5tdi…
It keeps going into limp mode on hills around 60 mph…garage had said turbo veins sticking….has since strated blowing the pipe off my egr delete pipe…is this over boosting? What’s my best option or should I just start with a cleaner in the tank?

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  May 31, 2016 at 9:25 am
  
  I would start with a bottle of Archoil AR6400-D.
  
  Reply
christopher dono says:

February 4, 2016 at 10:09 pm

i have just bought a bmw x5 could i use a turbo cleaner
in my petrol tank to help prevent any carbon build in the future thanks

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  February 5, 2016 at 1:42 pm
  
  No, turbo cleaners are designed for diesel engines as they have inherent turbo deposit issues. Just use a high strength polyetheramine fuel cleaner and this will clean the whole system through including any deposits on the turbo, which will be minimal on a petrol engine.
  
  Reply
John Charlesworth says:

December 30, 2015 at 9:50 pm

Hi Andy
Great information on your site thanks. Could you confirm the description of the turbo on a Rover 75 2 litre diesel BMW engine manual 2001 model. Is it a variable vane type,and is it possible that the vanes might be clogged with carbon etc? Which would be your best product to clean this item, because the turbo range is from 2000-3000 RPM. What should the range be.

Thanks John Charlesworth

Thanks very much

John Charlesworth

Reply
1. Power Enhancer says:
  
  December 31, 2015 at 9:55 am
  
  Hi, although it’s the same lump as the then BMW 320D I understand they used a different (non VV) turbo. This will provide a smaller powerband. Try a good quality system cleaner first such as AR6400-D.
  
  Reply
Bill woltz says:

October 13, 2015 at 4:25 am

I am having trouble with my 2006 dodge turbo diesel. Over 100000 and has been to the dealer 3 times and is now in limp mode. The dealer drilled a hole in the turbo the first time. I assume it was to spray some sort of cleaner in it. Am i correct. What would be sprayed into the turbo? Thanks

Reply
1. Power Enhancer says:
  
  November 27, 2015 at 4:02 pm
  
  Hi, possibly a solvent cleaner to remove carbon to free up the variable geometry. Use AR6200 and AR9100 to control further build-up. This combination is VERY popular with Ford Powerstroke owners.
  
  Reply
Steve Larne says:

July 25, 2015 at 8:57 pm

Hey Andy, quick question. I have the dreaded over boost on my 2008 Octavia tdi 2.0 around the 4k rpm mark. Due to my driving style I rarely push the engine that much so i guess that’s why I’ve only just detected it ….and caused it. Anyway have added some redex to my recent tank fill and I have a turbo cleaner ready to go. Can I add the turbo cleaner to this current 50 litres already containing the redex or is it best to wait until I fill up again in a few weeks. In other words can the additives both be used in the sane tank of fuel?
Cheers
Steve

Reply
1. Andy Archer says:
  
  July 26, 2015 at 10:56 am
  
  Hi, they really need to be used separately.
  
  Reply
Tony says:

July 20, 2015 at 3:29 pm

Hi Andy. I’ve got a Vauxhall meriva 1700 diesel. Everything runs perfectly, but recently I had a light come on (spanner) I was told it was nothing to worry about, it does go off for a while but tends to come on when I start the car. I switch the engine off and it goes off again. It comes on after a while, but not every time. But I now have a management light come on in place of the other light. That light is now on permanently. Any suggestions?

Reply
1. Andy Archer says:
  
  July 22, 2015 at 7:06 pm
  
  Hi, could be many causes. Really needs further diagnosis or at least the error codes read.
  
  Reply
Iain says:

July 10, 2015 at 7:49 am

Thanks Andy, The issue I’m having is much the same as described by others with TD’s; there is a flat spot at 3.5kRPM then the usual huge boost, my initial thought was the wastegate or the fuel mix. I have some fuel treatment that I will use on a long drive and hope this flushes everything through. If not then I guess it’s back to the garage for further investigation. I appreciate you getting back to me, I’ll post back if I get it resolved as it may help others with similar issues.

Reply
Iain says:

July 9, 2015 at 9:12 am

Great website, I got really excited that this might help solve a boost lag in my VXR which I think is a sticking wastegate. It appears all the turbo cleaning additives suggested are for Turbo Diesel’s. Are they compatible with petrol or can you suggest another?? Cheers!

Reply
1. Andy Archer says:
  
  July 10, 2015 at 2:54 pm
  
  Hi, on petrol cars you don’t need dedicated fuel borne catalyst cleaners. A high strength polyetheramine fuel/carbon cleaner will clean post combustion areas. However, turbos on petrol cars seldom struggle with carbon build-up. I suspect the wastegate or actuator is faulty or become weak.
  
  Reply
Fab says:

May 15, 2015 at 7:26 am

Hi Andy,

love your blog!
First off, please bear with my english as I’m German

I drive a Volvo Diesel (2Liter 5 cylinder 163 HP stock, mapped to approx 185-190 HP) and am experiencing some surges at high speeds, normally around 3000-3200 rpm. It’s like the engine or Turbo looses power for a split second and then burst forward again. I am also experiencing heavy black smoke on WOT at high speeds, or as soon as the engine revs passed roundabout 3300.

Everyone would say, it’s the remap. Problem here is, it did not do this at first, it only started after about 6 weeks. Off course the remap will put the engine to it’s limit, so hardware malfunction is prone to happen. I was aware of that risk. The car drives just fine in normal conditions, it’s only on the Autobahn passed 180 km per hour that I experience this surge. Acceleration up till there is pretty awesome and lacks no power.

I’m suspecting the turbo (Garrett GT1444VZ variable geometry) to be on it’s way out. What do you think? Are these symptoms plausible for a Turbo failure, or sticky VGT?

I checked for boost leaks, but everything is fine on the hoses, the intercooler shows no oil leaks.

Before dismantling the Turbo I want to try one mor thing, so I just bought the Bardahl Turbo cleaner. Not a cheap item, but if it helps my Turbo live a while longer why not.

I’ll let you know how it went, and perhaps you could share some thoughts what you think it might be.

Cheers!

Reply
1. Andy Archer says:
  
  May 19, 2015 at 8:24 am
  
  Hi, I would check if the company that did the remap could temporarily remove it just to be sure. When a new tune is installed the engine will go through an adaption process so issues don’t always show up straight away. If they have the correct diagnostics tools then also ask them to carry out some live data-logging. You are looking for a significant difference between the boost pressure ask (what the ECU is requesting) versus boost pressure actual (what is actually being delivered).
  
  Do the usual checks for split hoses, boost leaks etc. If it does point to variable vane issue then use a high strength fuel system cleaner first as itwill also help clean the turbo. Then use a dedicated turbo cleaner.
  
  Reply
Alex says:

March 14, 2015 at 7:14 pm

Is the AR6600 available to the US market?

Reply
1. Andy Archer says:
  
  March 15, 2015 at 12:11 pm
  
  Hi, it is only available in Europe. I would recommend AR6400-D instead.
  
  Regards,
  
  Andy
  
  Reply
Vigan says:

January 20, 2015 at 1:56 pm

Hi Andy,

I am pretty much having the same problem as Al Pott above, but my OBD reading is P0234 for my VW Jetta TDi 2006 reg. The code reads ‘Turbocharger/Supercharger Overboost’. Do you think that Archoil AR6400-D Professional Polyetheramine Concentrate (430ml) could do some good to my powerless car? or should I go for the full Archoil Professional Turbo Cleaning & Maintenance Pack.

Regards

Vigan

Reply
1. Andy Archer says:
  
  January 20, 2015 at 7:02 pm
  
  Hi, overboost conditions on that engine can also be caused by air intake/vacuum hose leaks so have these checked first.
  
  Providing the build-up is mainly fuel-carbon build-up then you have a reasonable chance with AR6400-D. If it makes a difference then AR6600 will provide an even greater improvement and increase the time before the problem resurfaces.
  
  If AR6400 doesn’t make a difference then the build-up has too much oil contamination, which makes it very difficult to remove. I would be inclined to leave AR6600 and pursue a more invasive solution such as removing the unit and cleaning it manually.
  Andy
  
  Reply
suresh says:

December 9, 2014 at 9:26 pm

Hi Andy, is thgis product available in Canada and where?

Reply
1. Andy Archer says:
  
  December 15, 2014 at 11:13 am
  
  Hi, these are not available in Canada yet. However, AR6400-D and AR6200 also works well on turbos and is available.
  
  Reply
Al Pott says:

October 26, 2014 at 9:59 pm

Hey,

I’ve been trolling the internet trying to find information on why i am experiencing difficulty with my 2005 ford Mondeo titanium, and i have found your website to be very informative.
about a week ago I was driving and i started experiencing a distinct lack of power in the speed of the car, it still drives but the acceleration is really poor. i’ve also realised that when i press down on the gas pedal the engine becomes non-responsive from about half-way down, so I can get power out of the car pushing down about half way down but then anything after that just does nothing. Also hills absolutely kill the speed, especially on the motorway, sometimes dropping down to around 45mph.
I bought an OBD reader and was getting fault code P0402, which from what i could gather from the internet was a problem with the EGR valve. So i removed this and gave it a thorough clean as there was alot of carbon build up. i sprayed it thoroughly with 3-in-1 high performance spray to help do this.
I re-connected the EGR valve and only really noticed a slight increase in power, nothing massive. So after still not really knowing what problem was I went to halfords and was recommended a fuel additive to try and clean the system (Wynn’s Injector Cleaner For Diesel Engines 325ml) which again only gave a minimal improvement.
Still not knowing the problem I eventually came across this website which has actually explained things in layman terms, and after reading the turbo cleaning & maintenance page I thought that there may be a possible issue with a carbon build up in the turbo vanes.
After your recommendation on decent cleaning products I’ve decided that i should probably go all out and try and give my car as much of a clean up as possible to see if it works, i was looking at buying the Archoil Professional Turbo Cleaning & Maintenance Pack which contains the below products:

1 x Archoil AR6400-D Professional Polyetheramine Concentrate (430ml)
1 x Archoil AR6600 Professional Diesel Turbo Cleaner (430ml)
1 x Archoil AR2820 Professional Engine Flush (400ml Bottle)
1 x Archoil AR9100 Advanced Friction Modifier & Oil Additive (250ml)
1 x Archoil AR6200 Fuel Modification Complex High Concentrate (20ml)
3 x Disposable Funnels

I was just wondering if you knew the best order to use these products to get maximum effect.
Can the fuel additives be mixed together or do they need to be used one at a time?
do i need to completely empty and then add new oil as well as the oil additive to see the best results?

I apologise for the long-winded email, but any advice you can give me on this would be really helpful.

Reply
1. Andy Archer says:
  
  October 28, 2014 at 10:12 am
  
  Hi, when cleaning the EGR make sure any periphery pipework leading back into the intake is also clear.
  
  I would recommend using the AR6400-D first followed by AR6600 in the second tank (with 20 litres of fuel) and then AR6200 in subsequent tanks. The AR2810 can be used at any point. Use the AR9100 in with the fresh oil.
  
  Regards,
  
  Andy
  
  Reply