All posts by Oilem

Engine Break-in, Bed-in, Run-in Definitive Guide

July 30, 2020 Oilem Leave a comment

It is an almost certainty that the user manual of any new vehicle you purchase will stipulate a running-in period usually of 1,000 miles or more. Why is this and is it even necessary with modern engines and the advance in materials and machining techniques?

I’ll answer the second part first – No, not in my professional opinion. I’ll get onto the “why” later.

So what do I mean – no? Am I mad? Well, only on the first the first tee of a golf course with a driver in my hand. It’s amazing how one loses their senses in this situation – only a golfer will understand this madness. But I digress; let me explain.

Going back a few decades, cylinder liners underwent a single stage honing process that left a crosshatch pattern on the surface of cylinders or cylinder liners. Sharp, jagged edges created by the newly honed surfaces then needed to be removed or smoothed to provide an optimum seal between the piston compression rings and cylinders.

This was best achieved with a lower quality, usually mineral based, engine oil allowing the piston rings to bed-in against the cylinder thus creating a strong seal. This bedding in process, which is basically “controlled wear of engine components”, included a gradual increase in load and revs on the engine over a period of running hours and/or miles. This was essential to deliver a good seal and cylinder compression and limit engine oil consumption. Following this the engine oil would be replaced with a higher quality semi or fully synthetic oil with friction modifiers designed to lower friction and reduce further wear.

It is much different now and has been for some time since manufacturers introduced a final stage honing process. Referred to as a plateau hone, this finishing process simulates the majority of an engine run-in by removing the sharp, uneven ridges created by the primary honing process. It guarantees an almost perfect seal from the outset or at least very close to it. It also enables manufactures to use a high quality synthetic oils from the factory without the need for running-in oil. Therefore, any final running in should be completed promptly and not over 1000+ miles, where there is a risk of bore glazing resulting in reduced power loss and potential excessive oil consumption.

So why do manufacturers still insist on a lengthy running-in period?

I have spoken to numerous professionals on this subject including a Metallurgy Professor who has worked with vehicle OEMs. There is no definitive answer but here are my conclusions:

1. Manufacturers may be using the running-in period as mitigation against minor machining tolerance issues from the manufacturing/assembly process, which may then resolve through further bedding in. However, it is my opinion that any such underlying fault would likely surface at some point anyway regardless of how an engine is run in.

2. Even though the engine may not require as much bedding-in other components may do such as drive train (manual clutches, auto clutch packs, differentials etc.). Then there are brake pads and discs, not forgetting those brand new tyres. You get the idea.

3. User orientation. Being new the car is likely to feel very different and driving in a more cautious manner gives the user time to become more accustomed to the vehicle.

4. Finally, the £ – applicable to BMW M-cars. Every M car owners knows the importance of the 1200 mile running in service that requires an engine oil and filter change as a minimum. However, even BMW acknowledge that the factory fill oil is the same specification oil used for the 1200 mile run-in service. Oil analysis taken from the initial 1200 mile period has shown little material wear or at least not enough to warrant a change after 1200 miles. Go figure?

Now we look at the other end of the spectrum. There is a consensus that owners of brand new vehicles should drive them “normally” from new or drive them like they stole them! This is also incorrect. Even though a plateau hone has done a lot of the hard work for you there is still some work left to do.

This is how I “bed-in” my new cars and none of them have ever required oil top-ups between services. These include high performance cars such as Audi S and RS models and BMW M cars.
I normally complete the engine run-in within 200 miles with the first 50 miles being the most critical

1. MOST IMPORTANT: Bring the engine to FULL operating temperature through normal driving, allowing the engine to rev freely. Do not lug a brand new engine or leave it idling for an extended period of time! Where possible use manual shifting with automatic transmissions to stop it holding on to high gears and lugging the engine.

2. In the lower gears, particularly 2nd and 3rd and where safe to do so, accelerate moderately to approx. 2/3 of the rev range and let the vehicle slow down using the engine braking rather than the foot brakes.

3. Repeat this process slowly increasing the amount of throttle to increase the accelerative effort/engine load. Then move up to 4th and 5th gear for vehicles with transmissions that have 7 or more gears. Again, only when safe to do so and remaining respectful to other road users. Drive the vehicle normally for a short while allowing the engine to cool.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 but increase the revs by approximately 1,000 each time building up the load and gears until you eventually reach full revs in mid-range gears. It is not necessary to achieve full RPM in top gears to bed an engine in fully. It is also unsafe on a public road. Full throttle in the mid gears to full RPM and full throttle to a safe RPM in the upper gears is sufficient. It is not an exact science and 50 miles is sufficient to give you an idea of how much running in is required.

5. For the remaining 100-150 miles drive the vehicle normally but occasionally running a full throttle run in lower mid to mid gears using the natural engine braking to slow the vehicle down. The engine should now be fully run in.

I hope this proves helpful. To correct any existing bore glazing condition please read our article “Eradicate Bore Glazing” HERE.

Engine Flush & Compression Restore

Restore Compression Loss & Remove Engine Glaze

April 30, 2020 Oilem 2 Comments

There are numerous causes of cylinder compression loss. The first is poor engine break-in. If you haven’t already done so we recommend you read our guide on “Engine Break-in” HERE. Providing it hasn’t been left too long and the glazing hasn’t resulted in bore polishing (bore wear), the glaze can be removed and cylinder compression restored. Left untreated it can result in bore polishing, which is when the machined hone marks wear away. This can only be corrected with a re-honing of the cylinder walls.

Engine glaze is a condition where hardened oil deposits fill the asperities in the cylinder hone markings. When this occurs engine oil has nothing to “grip” onto so is unable to deliver the necessary lubrication and protection. It also limits the seal between the piston rings and cylinder resulting in a loss of engine power and excess oil consumption. These hardened deposits cannot be removed with conventional engine flushes.

Another cause is poor oil quality. The oil stock can break down, burn and create a glaze. This causes combustion gases to blow by the piston rings, contaminating the oil further and thus creating a vicious cycle of oil breakdown. Neglected engines and over used engine oil can also contribute to this.

Bore glazing is particularly prevalent in engines that run at idle for extended periods. This includes generators but the issue is more commonly attributed to marine engines. Removing cylinder glazing will enable the piston rings to re-seat against the liner and ensure the lubricating oil is able to lubricate and protect as intended. ReleaseTech can restore such engines of any size, reducing oil consumption and excess exhaust smoke.

How to fix compression loss from suspected bore glazing?

Effective and rapid cleaning is not a simple task. It requires a much stronger and more complex product with chemistry that rapidly cleans WHILST protecting the engine. This is not a job for a cocktail of cheap solvents. Delivering sufficient protection to the engine can be a challenge for conventional de-glazing products to the degree that cleaning performance is comprised. Many rely on the existing engine oil without adding any additional lubricity package.

ReleaseTech Power Flush contains unique and powerful cleaning agents within a non-interference and very lubricious and proprietary ester base ensuring the engine is protected throughout the cleaning cycle to the degree that under professional use, the vehicle can be driven gently for a short period of time with ReleaseTech in the engine oil to improve cleaning performance. Cleaning power and engine protection are not compromised.

Cleaning the engine lubricating system

ReleaseTech’s powerful formula not only helps restore engine compression but will effortlessly remove deposits from within the engine and sump. Deposits are safely dispersed and held in suspension within the lubricating oil without any risk of blocking oil channels providing the oil is drained immediately after the cleaning cycle. This will improve efficiency, help extend oil life whilst reducing excess engine noise and clatter.

ReleaseTech Power Flush will not restore actual engine wear but it remains a cost effective way of determining if the underlying issue is engine glaze and thus provides a process of elimination before any costly strip down. If Oilem ReleaseTech doesn’t fix it then no other engine-flush product on the market will make a difference and depending on the severity of wear the engine will require an oil compression additive or worse, cylinder re-hone.

Customers of ReleaseTech Power Flush report improved engine performance in cases of restored engine compression but also quieter running and engine oil that stays cleaner for longer.
We are so confident with the performance of ReleaseTech PowerFlush that it comes with a full money back guarantee. If you are not happy with the cleaning or compression restoration performance then we will refund the cost of the product in full.

Please contact us should you require further information or advice.

ReleaseTech Power Flush can be purchased HERE.

Fuel Addtives

Difference between Hybrogen and AR6900-D

March 21, 2019 Oilem 35 Comments

Fuel additive science is not definite. There are too many influencing factors and differing requirements to be able to produce the “ultimate additive” that universally works for all. What may work well on one engine does not guarantee success on another. This presents the need for different technologies to help match successful functions to that of the engine, fuel and requirements of the user.

This is also why it becomes difficult to recommend the best fuel conditioner for you and also why we supply sample sizes of our most popular products so that you can test and decide which works best for you and your vehicle.

Take Archoil AR6900-D as an example. It delivers a multitude of functions that include fuel stabilisation, anti-foaming, cleaning (via detergents), lubricity (via a lubricant), cetane improver and combustion improvement (via a combustion catalyst). These are all delivered chemically to the fuel and obtaining a balance of functions becomes more of an art form than science because the functions can compete against one another.

Too much lubricity can reduce cleaning performance; too much detergent can reduce combustion catalyst performance; too much cetane improver can negate MPG gains being delivered by the combustion catalyst; and it goes on and on. When you consider that fuels vary in lubricity, cetane # and detergent performance and combine this with the fact that engines responds differently to each of the aforementioned functions it is no wonder it is impossible to achieve a 100% success rate with additive use. However, we can get closer to it than most by offering a range of technologies that offer different functions or deliver similar functions but in a different way.

This is where Oilem Hybrogen enters the arena. Hybrogen is essentially an aggressive dispersant and combustion modifier. It helps clean but through the use of cleaner combustion gases and by reducing surface tension in the fuel system. There is no active detergent. This surface tension reduction also improves lubricity yet there is no active lubricant. It improves combustion quality by manipulating the fuel rather than “treating” it.

We know from testing that some customers prefer AR6900-D, whereas others prefer Hybrogen and some the original AR6200. Many customers have discovered a fantastic combination of a cetane booster and lubricant such as AR6850 and Hybrogen combined. This is a safe combination to use by the way as long as they are added separately. However, AR6900-D or AR6200 cannot be combined with Hybrogen.

Quick summary of each product and possible product combinations:
Archoil AR6200-EU – Good fuel stabilisation and preserving fuel for long time storage, good lubricant, gentle cleaner and combustion modifier.

Archoil AR6900-D MAX – good lubricant, stabiliser and cleaner, great cetane improver and combustion improver. Often better on engines that respond well to additional cetane.

Oilem Hybrogen Road – Great dispersant and combustion modifier with gentle secondary cleaning and lubrication. Often works where MPG and/or power increase results have been less than expected with AR6900-D MAX.

Oilem Hybrogen Road + AR6850 – Fantastic combustion improver and lubricant. Works great on engines that respond well to the Hybrogen combustion modifier and additional cetane.

Please note this is an approximate guide and we are always available to advise further. However, we strongly recommend customers test a sample bottle of AR6900-D and Hybrogen and decide which works best for you.

Fuel Quality

What is the difference between standard and premium diesel fuel?

January 16, 2017 Oilem 7 Comments

I will keep this brief because it is very simple.

Take any branded diesel fuel. What is the difference between that brand’s standard EN590 diesel and super/premium diesel that you pay an extra 8-10p more per litre for?

1. Additional deposit control detergent.
2. Additional 2-Ethylhexyl nitrate (2-EHN) cetane improver.

That is it. The additional performance reported by vehicle owners when using “super” diesel is the improvement in combustion quality from the higher cetane value through the use of additional 2-EHN. 2-EHN is the worldwide proven and recognised standard for raising the cetane value in diesel fuels.

What would your average diesel fuel conditioning additive deliver?

1. Additional deposit control detergent (ideally DW10 tested)
2. Additional 2-Ethylhexyl nitrate (2-EHN) cetane improver
3. Lubricity additive / friction modifier.

Higher quality brands may also include the following:

4. Water demulsifier
5. Anti corrosion additive
6. Dispersant and antioxidant to help restore and preserve fuel quality
7. Combustion catalyst to enhance combustion quality further and help keep post combustion areas clean.
Other specialist additives can deliver the following:
8. Cold flow performance (anti wax/gel)
9. Biological contamination removal/prevention (biocide).

So what does this mean?

Virtually all diesel fuel conditioners contain 2-EHN or are 2-EHN based. When added to standard diesel fuel even the cheapest, lowest quality 2-EHN based diesel additives will most likely deliver greater benefits and value than premium diesel fuels.

The average price of super/premium diesel is 8 to 10 pence more per litre or £5+ per average tank of diesel.

A 2-EHN based conditioner that uses the same or similar performing ingredients and essentially turns standard diesel into premium fuel will cost between 1 and 4 pence per litre.

I hope that clears up the mystery.

DPF Cleaning & Maintenance

DPF Cleaners and DPF Cleaning

May 14, 2015 Oilem 83 Comments

DPF Cleaners and DPF Cleaning – The Definitive Guide

This is the second iteration of this article. It has been updated to reflect the common problems that are encountered when tackling what are understood to be DPF blockages.

In this article we will address the following questions:

What is a DPF?
Why do DPFs clog up?
Misdiagnosis and related common faults.
Reasons why a DPF cleaner may not work for you?
The correct logical steps to diagnose and fix a DPF blockage.

What is a DPF?

A DPF or Diesel Particulate Filter is a device integral to the operation of the exhaust emission control system. It captures particulate matter and hydrocarbons, stores them, and every so often a process of regeneration occurs where these deposits and particulates are burned off, converted to CO2 and vented out the exhaust.

Why do DPFs clog up? There are a number of contributing factors.

The first is the quality of the fuel. The second is the quality of the engine oil and the third, driving style and journey type. Diesel engines in particular are not designed for short journeys or stop-start driving and such conditions create an excess of particulate matter in the emission control components. That means that the DPF as well as other parts such as the EGR and catalytic convertor have more particulate waste to deal with.

The issue arises when the engine is producing more particulate matter than the DPF can cope with. A variety of symptoms may then become evident such as engine hesitation or power loss. Eventually an engine warning light that informs you there’s an issue with the system, and if not resolved the vehicle is then put into a “limp home” mode, with reduced power.

If the system is clogged excessively, it is common for the ECU to prevent further regeneration. This is very lucrative for some dealerships and garages, because in their view, it means you have to replace the DPF, which can run four figures in cost. I can tell you categorically, the DPF can be cleaned unless it has failed catastrophically, even if it’s 100% saturated and the vehicle will barely run at idle. It can also be cleaned even if the ECU will no longer force a regeneration cycle with the help of diagnostic software. Furthermore, modern cleaning techniques and technology means that the DPF does not have to be removed to be fully cleaned but more on that later.

It is important to note that particulate matter that accumulates in the DPF is NOT just from the fuel and the combustion process. It’s normally a combination of those elements, as well as engine oil. Oil can be blown through the crankcase breather system, but more commonly (on a diesel engine), it bypasses the piston rings and is poorly combusted. Those particulates then accumulate in the DPF. This is the reason you have mid-SAP and low-SAP oils. The theory is that such oils have lower ash content, which gives the DPF an easier life. In some cases, high ash content can damage the DPF because it isn’t able to combust those types of particulates. Our experience actually differs from this as higher ash oils can prevent oil being bypassed in the first place. However, that is a different subject for another day.

Resolving a Blocked DPF

Firstly, one of the most common mistakes is actually misdiagnosis. An emission control warning light or even a DPF warning light does NOT ALWAYS mean the DPF is blocked. This is much more common than you think so do not assume the DPF must be blocked if your vehicle produces a DPF warning light.

For Example:

Emission warning lights are normally shared across the entire emission control system so an EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve fault or similar can be the root cause of what first appears to be a DPF issue.
One of the most common faults is that the Pressure Differential Sensor that calculates the saturation level and reports an over-saturation condition to the ECU could be faulty. In other words the DPF is fine but the sensor is reporting excess carbon and preventing a regeneration cycle. These sensors should be one of the first things that are checked but they are often ignored. The result is an unhappy customer as the cleaning product or process “didn’t work”. It probably did but the sensor is just reporting otherwise.
The ECU has identified the pressure sensor as faulty and it is this that needs to be replaced rather than the DPF cleaned.

Secondly, and more important than the first; there MUST be an underlying reason for a DPF blockage if, in fact, it is actually blocked. The underlying reasons should be established and where possible, addressed accordingly.

For Example:

Fuel system deposits resulting in an inefficient combustion process can produce more carbonaceous matter than the DPF can manage. This can also apply to using low quality or incorrect specification oil. Is the engine consuming oil?
Driving style and journey types. Certain conditions must be met to enable the DPF to regenerate and manage the carbon build-up. Continuous low RPMs, stop/start driving and short journeys that do not permit the engine and DPF to reach full operating temperature will eventually take its toll.
Other underlying faults such as an injector or EGR issue could be preventing the DPF from regenerating. The ECU recognizes an underlying fault and “locks out” or prevents DPF regeneration cycles.
As above, the pressure differential sensor is just faulty and misreading the level of backpressure between the front and rear of the DPF. Saturation level is only 10% yet the sensor is calculating 50% = game over until the sensor is replaced.

Therefore, as best as you can it is important to establish if there is a DPF blockage and if there is, or high probability that there is, to identify the root cause(s). If not, you will be fighting a losing battle.

This is why fuel-based DPF cleaners and professional DPF cleaning is so hit and miss. Many users fail to correctly diagnose and/or address the actual root cause.

If a fuel based DPF cleaner did not “work” then there is a good chance that the actual fault is not directly DPF related or that an underlying problem is forcing you into lose-lose position. It is not always as straightforward as many make out but I am going to make it as easy as I can for you.

Logical Steps to Resolving Suspected DPF Issues

STEPS	ACTION	APPROX. COSTS
1. Simple	If you suspect the DPF is blocked then before you spend a penny on diagnostics or treatments do this: Get the vehicle up the full operating temperature, drive down the road and drop a couple of gears to get the engine revs above 3-3.5k. In other words try to force a DPF regen.	Free other than the cost of fuel
2. Basics	If the above fails then you need to make the choice of using a fuel based cleaner and/or investigating further. If using a cleaner then combine it with step 1. It is a reasonable low cost process of elimination. I would recommend a high strength fuel system and engine cleaner first before using a dedicated DPF Cleaner OR use a fuel cleaner with combined DPF cleaning function. A basic OBD / CAN BUS code reader can be purchased for as little £10-£20. I recommend everyone keeps one in their car. If warning lights are visible then the ECU will have stored codes and rather than blindly guessing you are well on your way to correctly diagnosing the issue or any underlying problems.If the codes do indicate a DPF saturation issue then this may be enough to justify using a high quality fuel cleaner and/or dedicated DPF cleaner. The rationale for using a fuel cleaner first is that it will ensure the fuel system is clean (common underlying fault) whilst also helping to clean the DPF by restoring combustion efficiency. Many fuel system cleaners and carbon removers also include catalyst technology that will actively remove carbon from the DPF anyway.Please don’t hesitate to contact us if you need help with interpreting error codes or advice on correct product choice.	High Quality Fuel Cleaner – £20 Code Reader – £10+ Dedicated DPF Cleaner or combined Fuel and DPF Cleaner- £20+
3. Professional Diagnosis – Basic	If you don’t have a code reader then a diesel specialist will be able to read the codes for you, leaving you with the choice to attempt the fuel cleaner based route should the codes point to a genuine DPF blockage issue.If the Technician has the correct diagnostics tool they should be able to attempt to force a regeneration cycle either on its own or aided with an in-tank DPF cleaner.	Basic Code Reading – £20+Forced Regen – £30+
4. Professional Diagnosis – FULL	A full diagnosis should include a full error code check and a test of the pressure differential sensor as well as other emissions control components that can create an apparent DPF issue. Basically, you want to confirm if the DPF is genuinely blocked and if so, why? Or the technician needs to identify the actual underlying fault(s) creating the warning lights.If it is looking like a DPF blockage then the first step is for the technician to attempt to force a regen cycle via the diagnostics tool. This is by far the cheapest fix before professional cleaning or worse, DPF removal.	Full Diagnosis – £60+Plus any remedial treatment/repair costs.
5. Professional DPF Clean	If other underlying faults have been ruled out, a DPF blockage correctly diagnosed and a fuel system cleaner plus DPF cleaner hasn’t worked then a professional clean would be the next logical step.Our recommendation would be a professional DPF Cleaning Kit. These are professional use products so you will need to find a participating garage. This is a non-invasive process and is fully guaranteed. The garage will require the correct equipment to reset the DPF and where necessary force regeneration once cleaned.	Professional DPF Clean £200+

Further information:

In many cases, using a professional fuel system and carbon cleaner to ensure that the fuel system and injectors are operating without deposits can be more important that using a dedicated DPF cleaner. Not only will a fuel system cleaner help clean the DPF anyway but it will eliminate one of the most common contributory factors (dirty injectors) that if not resolved, will allow the DPF to clog up again soon after. For this we recommend the new Archoil AR6400-D MAX as it is a combined fuel system cleaner, carbon remover, turbo cleaner and DPF cleaner.

You can use a generic cleaner that relies on the natural scavenging and cleaning mechanism (as described in the EGR cleaning article) or you can utilize one of the higher-end cleaners that use molecules that are activated during the combustion process (catalysts). These molecules bond with the hydrocarbons in the DPF and reduce the threshold temperature at which they can burn. By far the best we have tested is the Archoil AR6400-D MAX. It contains chemistry comprising of carbon-removing molecules that are activated during the combustion process rather than destroyed like most fuel additives. This type of cleaner combined with a spirited drive (or dropping down a gear) to create more heat will help to clean the DPF much more thoroughly. In genuine DPF blockage cases, these cleaners have some of the highest success rates of any DPF cleaning additives we have tested of reducing the saturation percentage, removing the engine warning light and enabling passive regeneration.

It’s important to point out that heat is vital when removing carbon. So, using such a cleaner with short journeys will inhibit results. You have to combine them with a longer run, and a driving style that permits the temperature within the DPF and the system in general to increase.

If passive regeneration is not restored and the cleaner is not working then the DPF is oversaturated to the point that the ECU will not permit a regeneration cycle, the issue has been misdiagnosed or there is another factor restricting DPF regeneration. DPF regen could be locked out by the ECU rendering the system inoperable. It is also possible to have a vehicle that’s so saturated that the back pressure is restricted so much that it will barely idle. For this, the DPF needs to be cleaned directly by a professional.

Professional Cleaning

It usually consists of a 2 step cleaning process that must be administered by a professional. The first of this series is sprayed directly in the DPF through the pressure sensor hose. The chemical bonds with the carbon, dissolves it and prepares it for the next stage.

The second step involves holding high revs to burn off the carbon for a few minutes, followed by a flushing solution administered through the same hose. This removes any residual cleaning agents and deposits.

We recommend finding a garage local to you for this type of clean.

Maintaining a Clean DPF

Once the DPF is clean, it’s equally important to ensure that the particulates remain at a manageable level. I’ve already mentioned the importance of a professional fuel system cleaner to restore efficiency in the fuel injectors. I’d also recommend an ongoing fuel additive that contains a fuel catalyst or combustion modification technology, such as Archoil AR6900-D MAX or Oilem Hybrogen. They will lower the amount of hydrocarbons created in the first place. They reduce the threshold temperature at which the fuel is burned even when the engine is cold. So, even from the moment you start the engine you’ll be producing fewer hydrocarbons. This is critical if your vehicle is just used for local trips (shopping runs, school runs, etc.). It gives the DPF a much easier life and will reduce the tendency for it becoming oversaturated in the future. We have many reports from both consumers and fleet owners that their vehicles regenerate much less when using Hybrogen or AR6900-D MAX. The key is to keep the carbon production at a manageable level for the emission control system and such additives achieve this.

Excessive Oil contamination

If the engine is consuming oil then unburnt oil can contaminate the DPF. Where necessary, use a professional engine oil flush to restore lost compression during the next oil change as deposits build up on the piston rings. These deposits push the rings away from the bore, thus allowing oil to bypass the rings and enter the combustion area. Once that happens, the DPF has to cope with an influx of particulates and more buildup.

Then use a high quality oil and/or oil additive to retain correct compression and prevent any future deposit build-up. For this we recommend any genuine synthetic oils (group IV or better) and/or Archoil AR9200 or AR9100. This will keep the piston rings and bores clean and reduce the amount of oil entering the intake. Combine this with a fuel additive, and there’s no reason the DPF cannot outlive the vehicle itself without the need to use dedicated DPF cleaning procedures (invasive or otherwise).

I hope that helps. If you require any assistance then please don’t hesitate to contact me or a member of my team.

Products can be ordered through www.powerenhancer.co.uk

Use the offer code OILEM10 during checkout for a 10% discount

Engine Tuning / Mapping & Tuning Boxes

ECU Remapping and the Inadequate Preparation

April 30, 2015 Oilem 2 Comments

There are now a multitude of companies that will remap the ECU on your vehicle. In most cases, this entails plugging a computer into the diagnostics port on your vehicle that directly communicates with the ECU. A technician reads the existing file on the ECU and overrides it with a new file. The new file has on it adjusted parameters which alter a number of characteristics on the engine. These include the amount of turbo boost pressure (if applicable), the fueling and ignition timing (if on a gasoline vehicle), and other such parameters.

What can happen on a diesel engine after remapping is that the amount of smoke coming out the exhaust increases, particularly on heavy acceleration. Where you once had a small amount of smoke from your exhaust, you now have a problem with a heavy amount of smoke. Any underlying running problems can be exacerbated with an engine remap. One of the things that surprises me tremendously is that many companies do not carry out a health check. Lots of remap servicers are mobile; they do not have the necessary tools, equipment, or expertise to precheck the vehicle. None of them, as far as I have researched, ensure that the fuel system is running correctly and that there isn’t an excess of carbon buildup.

If you are pushing the engine by asking it to work harder and produce more power, it is essential that you ensure that you have the best platform from which to remap and gain that additional performance. To guarantee this, the first thing we advise is to carry out a health check. Make sure there are no error codes. Then combine the remap with a professional fuel system cleaner and carbon remover. It is essential that the fuel system is running efficiently before you remap your vehicle. On a petrol engine, it is essential that the ignition components, the ignition system, and the fuel system are performing optimally in order to maximize the benefits to be gained from a remap.

Wherever you go to have your vehicle remapped or chipped, make sure the service includes the necessary checks. Also make sure you use a high-quality fuel system cleaner, particularly if your exhaust has any excess smoke. If you have excess smoke, I strongly advise that you get the issue resolved or checked before performing a remap.

Engine Tuning / Mapping & Tuning Boxes

Why are ECU / Engine Remaps and Tuning Boxes so Effective?

April 30, 2015 Oilem 10 Comments

When one purchases a vehicle they likely expect engine ECUs to be optimally mapped prior to sale. While they are normally very well mapped, whether or not it is done in an optimum way is very subjective.

In this article I will look at engine/ECU remapping and chipping and the use of tuning boxes. Particularly, I will explain why remapping works and in most cases, why it is safe.

With most manufacturing, compromises have to be made. ECU maps are no different. Yes, manufacturers invest a great deal of time in engine tuning and testing in the harshest climates. However, tuning criteria is designed around extremes that do not necessarily fit the requirements of the average customer or where the vehicle will be used.

Manufacturers have to adhere and comply with various legislative constraints surrounding emissions and other parameters that are set by the various governing bodies. As a result, this may affect the quality of factory ECU maps, with regards to available performance and/or MPG.

Many manufacturers produce vehicles in their range that to some degree compete with each other and in some cases even share the same engine. For example, a VW Golf may share the same engine as a VW Polo or a Porsche Boxter competing with the Porsche 997. The point being that it would be marketing suicide for a Porsche 997 to be considered slower than its younger brother. As a result, some engines are intentionally detuned or let’s say, not tuned to their full potential.

Furthermore, manufacturers are obliged to tune vehicles for wildly varying conditions, i.e. -40 to +130 degrees or really high altitudes where the air is much thinner. This is one of the reasons why engines run rich from the factory. It’s to accommodate dramatic climatic conditions that the average driver will never see. Even with the latest technology in fuel and ignition control, compromises on engine tune still have to be made just in case the vehicle is used in such conditions.

Vehicles need to survive the factory warranty period without fault. For example, it’s not uncommon to find an engine that is detuned with regards to torque output to ensure that the drivetrain doesn’t fail. Now, this begs the question: Why would anyone want to remap/chip their vehicle if there is an increased risk of component failure?

Well, here is the point I am really trying to make here. Car manufacturers must tune vehicles to cater to customers that are mechanically unsympathetic! This is very important. Drivetrains or engines (as an example) can fail when they are abused or raced from cold. It is this type of customer and not your average enthusiast that manufacturers are really trying to protect themselves against, at least within the factory warranty period.

Furthermore, fuel quality is not guaranteed. Customers embracing remaps are more inclined to use higher-quality branded fuels and/or fuel conditioners, unlike the average user. Manufacturers have little control over this so engines are tuned accordingly and with a little to spare in regards to turbo pressure, air/fuel ratio, ignition timing, etc.

A combination of the above is why we see so many forced induction engines running rich from the factory. This and all of the above gives reputable tuners the opportunity to liberate additional performance in a safe manner and under certain conditions, improve MPG from engines.

If in doubt, stick with reputable tuners and tuning box manufactures as this helps ensure you are receiving a well-developed tune.

Also bear in mind that even though normally aspirated engines can be remapped, the gains are very small when compared to forced induction engines. It would also be prudent to notify your car insurance provider.

UPDATE: We were asked how ECU remaps or Tuning Boxes can improve MPG?

With naturally aspirated petrol engines mpg gains are marginal at best. Minor adjustments can be made to ignition timing and air/fuel ratios but both power and mpg gains are minimal. This is the case with virtually all non-forced induction engine.

With turbo or supercharged petrol engines power gains usually very good with tangible but small MPG gains. MPG gains are two-fold on forced induction petrol engines. Many turbo charged engines run very rich from the factory under acceleration (open loop lambda). By carefully leaning out air/fuel mixture under open loop conditions fuel consumption can be reduced. This is more difficult with more modern engines that utilise wideband lambda technology. That said, most of the gains (if any) are achieved by improving the spread of torque across the rev range, or in particular, lowering it. If more torque is available lower in the rev range then less throttle is required to achieve the same level of accelerative effort. Of course, more fuel may be required to achieve the additional torque but lowering engine RPM more than compensates for this. And this is where diesel engines excel…

Turbo diesel engines – very good power (torque) gains and potential mpg gains. Most mpg gains are achieved in turbo diesel engines by using the principle described above – making more torque available lower in the rev range. If you used to use 40% throttle but now only have to use 35% throttle to achieve the same accelerative effort then you will most likely save fuel, once the novelty of the extra power has worn off!

Hope that helps.

Carbon Cleaners, Fuel Addtives, Fuel System Cleaning

Using Fuel Additives at Higher Dosages – Overdosing

March 13, 2015 Oilem 14 Comments

A question I am regularly asked is whether fuel additives can be added at a higher dose or added to less fuel in order to make a stronger concentrate, and whether this is more beneficial.

The answer in most cases is no. This is because additives are specifically designed to work with a certain amount of fuel. This ensures that any deposits are removed and dispersed in a controlled manner and that too many deposits aren’t purged through the system at once.

Polyetheramine-based cleaners, for example, work much better when treating the correct amount of fuel (i.e. a full tank of fuel) and allowing the chemistry to gradually remove deposits in a controlled way. If you add a cleaner designed for sixty litres of fuel to ten litres of fuel, not only do you run the risk of removing deposits too quickly but you also lose the benefit of the extended duration that sixty litres will provide.

The reason for this is that many additives are designed to work with fuel flow where the actual action of removing deposits requires the fuel to be in motion. Therefore, deposits are removed layer by layer as the fuel is moving through the system. The stronger the concentrate – and the less fuel that is treated – the lesser the amount of total motion that occurs.

Therefore, do not be tempted to treat with a much higher concentrate except when professionally instructed to do so and when, for example, a heavily-contaminated fuel injector requires urgent attention. In this instance some cleaners can be safely added directly to the fuel rail or fuel filter. However, this is a procedure that should be carried out by a professional and is not really relevant to in-the-tank fuel cleaners.

Another question we are regularly asked is why some additives require a lot of product, whereas others require such a small amount?

An example we’ll use here is a high-strength cleaner, such as Archoil’s AR6400, which requires 400 ml to treat a full tank, versus their fuel conditioner AR6900-D MAX, which is treated at a ratio of 1,000 to 1. 400ml vs 50ml.

So, why is this?

Different chemistries work in different ways. High-strength cleaners in particular generally require a much larger volume of chemistry, polyetheramine being one of them. Such cleaning power requires volume.

Some fuel conditioners act differently as there are nano-detergents that will provide an effective clean over a gradual period of time but with substantially less volume. For comparison, if you added AR6400 or AR6400D concentrate (or a similar product) to a full tank of fuel, you would start to notice a difference within ten to twenty miles of driving if there were excessive fuel system deposits. That is how quickly some concentrate cleaners work. With a fuel conditioner such as AR6200 or AR6900, noticeable improvements might take a few tanks. Rapid cleaning requires a volume of chemistry. Gradual cleaning, however, can be achieved at a nano level. Although cleaning takes long, it requires a very small amount of chemistry.

The concept behind AR6900 was very simple and this, we believe, should be the objective of all fuel conditioners – To deliver as many benefits as possible with the smallest amount of product possible.

Archoil has succeeded in producing a product that does as much as it possibly can at the nano level. This includes protecting against water, fuel contamination and corrosion, lubricating and cleaning the fuel system, removing carbon through the use of the catalyst, and improving the quality of combustion to improve MPG, etc. All of these benefits are achieved at the nano level; therefore, only a very small amount of the product is required.

What AR6200 or AR6900 cannot do is clean rapidly or provide additional anti-waxing protection because these processes require much higher volumes of chemistry. Also, the additives in these products are not necessarily about the chemistry themselves. The chemistry is there to deliver a process. Imagine adding a couple of drops of concentrated black dye to a bath of clean water. You will find that that dye will disperse very quickly and make the water black or gray depending on the amount of dye. AR6200 works in a similar way. It disperses very quickly, delivers a process, and produces the benefits that are described.

Andy

Engine Oils

Garages & Repair Centers Using Cheap Oil

March 13, 2015 Oilem 3 Comments

There is a “cheap oil” endemic and I am concerned for the consumer.

As distributers of various lubricants, one of our tasks is to demonstrate to automatic transmission and gearbox rebuild specialists the benefits of using OE (original equipment) oils or at least lubricants that meet the required manufacturer’s specifications. This is much more difficult than you might think.

I am concerned at the percentage of repair shops that chose to use low-quality, or many cases, the cheapest oils available. A customer can easily spend £1500, £3000, or even £5000+, on more complex automatic gearbox overhauls and yet, the garage performing the work will use oil that costs them around £1.50 to £2.00 per liter. And their response when they are asked why they choose such cheap oil? To paraphrase, their answer is generally this: “As long as it lasts the twelve month warranty period, it is fine.”

This raises an interesting concern, not just in the transmission rebuilding market but also with engine oil changes. My view is that as a consumer, you are perfectly within your rights to question and challenge the oil that is being installed in your vehicle, whether it’s the transmission fluid, engine oil, or any other fluid for that matter.

In virtually all cases, franchised dealers will use OE oils. That’s what your money is paying for and how they justify their excessive prices. While not always the best value or the highest quality, at least you are receiving an accepted and approved level of quality.

Our greatest concern is with some independent garages and repair centers. Too many garages still insist on “cheapest” and in some cases oils that simply do not meet the specifications for your vehicle. For example, when they use mid or high SAPS (sulphated ash, phosphorus, sulphur, etc.) oil with engines that are only designed to run on low SAPS oils. This is concerning because of the potential harm to the emission control components, such as the DPFs (Diesel Particulate Filter), and so on. There have even been instances of an oil distributor selling recycled oil to their dealers, only for the dealers to discover that the engines were starting to burn and consume more oil! The base stock and additive pack were simply not good enough and the oil deteriorated very quickly to the degree that the oil bypassed the piston rings and the engines began to consume it.

If you are paying for a service, repair work, or a complete overhaul of the transmission or engine in your vehicle, you are quite in your right to enquire about the fluids being used and request high-quality ones. When paying substantial money for a repair, it makes sense to use OE quality as an absolute minimum. If your vehicle is modified and the engine is producing more horsepower then it is advisable to use oils that exceed the manufacturer’s specifications or at least change them more regularly.

Andy

Carbon Cleaners, Fuel Addtives, Fuel System Cleaning

Fuel & Carbon Cleaners – What Happens to the Carbon?

March 10, 2015 Oilem 2 Comments

Frequently we are asked about fuel-based carbon cleaners. Specifically, what happens to carbon deposits that are removed through the use of fuel cleaners and can these cleaners damage an engine?

Let’s begin by discussing the first part of that question.

Within the fuel system you’ll seldom find carbon itself. You are more likely to discover sludge, gum, varnish, debris, and similar deposits. The larger deposits are captured by the fuel filter. These and other deposits that have found their way through the fuel system are normally dissolved and dispersed in a controlled and manageable way using dispersal-based detergents. That’s why it is important to use additives at the recommended dosage so that deposit removal is completed in a controlled manner. High-strength fuel system cleaners that carry out this process normally contain a lubricant to ensure the entire system is lubricated during the cleaning procedure. This too minimizes the risk of any issues.

Most actual carbon formation occurs in the combustion chamber and post combustion areas. This includes the hot side of the turbo, intake, inlet valves, EGR, catalytic convertor, DPF, and the remainder of the exhaust tract. The reason why carbon remains is because there is insufficient heat to burn it off. Chemically, a liquid hydrocarbon fuel – such as gasoline or diesel – is very similar to the solidified fuel (carbon) that it creates. The difference is that to ignite and burn solid carbons a higher temperature must be reached because the flash point has changed.

High-quality fuel detergents, combined with fuel catalyst technology, reduce the threshold temperature at which the carbons can burn and therefore enable natural engine processes and inherent heat to gradually “burn off” the deposits. This is certainly the case for combustion chamber deposits.

Sometimes there also is a degree of active cleaning from any cleaning chemistry that is able to survive the combustion process and thus is still active post combustion. However, most carbon is removed by reducing the temperature at which it can burn as described above.

It is important to note that there also is a natural cleaning mechanism. When the combustion process is of sufficient quality – normally through an efficient fuel system (no injector deposits), sufficient fuel quality (more often than not, only achieved with fuel conditioners), and an engine that is up to full operating temperature – engines are designed to self-manage carbon build-up. The clean(ish) gases will naturally remove carbons with the aim of maintaining a respectable level.

The issue arises when this equilibrium is broken and more carbons are deposited than can be naturally removed. This could be due to a flawed engine design, poor fuel quality, fuel system deposits, driving style, failure to let the engine get up to the proper temperature, etc., or a combination of these.

This is why catalyst technology is so important in carbon cleaning and for keeping a system clean. When a catalyst is added to the fuel, it improves the quality of combustion to such a degree that it reduces the amount of hydrocarbons that are created, particularly when the engine is cold. These cleaner gases then get to work together, with the active work the catalyst is doing, to reduce the temperature at which these deposits can burn and be removed.

Essentially, a high-end fuel cleaner and carbon remover provides an environment where the quality of the combustion is much better and the exhaust gasses are much cleaner. The cleaner exhaust gasses will naturally scavenge and remove carbons from the combustion and the post combustion areas. The caveat is that this process requires heat. The catalyst will reduce the temperature at which the carbons can be removed and burned off, but it also needs heat.

This is why it is incredibly difficult for such chemistries to clean the EGR system. The problem is that an EGR and intake are designed to cool recirculating exhaust gasses. By doing so, they reduce the efficacy of any post combustion cleaner or chemistry. Unfortunately this also applies to the rear of the intake valves of direct poor injection engines. Those two areas are very difficult to clean because the gasses going through are cooled.

Also it is difficult to remove existing deposits in these areas. However, by using a high-quality conditioner with the fuel catalyst in both diesel and petrol applications, you’ll at least give the engine and emission control components a much easier life. This is because the engine and emissions systems will have fewer carbons to manage. This results in fewer deposits and hopefully removes the need to use high-strength cleaners or invasive measures to remove carbons manually.

What about the safety of cleaners and the risk of fuel system or engine damage?

Providing products are used as per the instructions, the risk of any damage is incredibly low. In fact, the few rare cases of alleged damage we have seen weren’t actually caused by the product. The product just revealed or exacerbated an underlying mechanical issue with the fuel system. This is incredibly rare.

Furthermore, manufactures err on the side of caution, so even if a product is used aggressively or improperly, it is still likely to be safe to use up until a certain point. For example, one of our main fuel conditioners is EPA tested. As part of the procedure the product is tested at ten times the recommended dose to ensure no possible harm to the fuel system or engine.

To summarise, fuel system deposits are generally dissolved, dispersed, and combusted naturally. Carbon is generally combusted through the use of heat and an added fuel catalyst and/or fuel borne catalyst. They are proven safe processes when used correctly and responsibly.