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EGR Cleaning and EGR Cleaners

by Oilem Published on Monday, July 29th, 2013

An EGR valve, or exhaust gas recirculation system is a primary component of an engine’s emissions system on both petrol and diesel powered vehicles. Its purpose is to reduce NOx emissions by recycling a proportion of the combustion gases that normally exit through the exhaust. A valve is used to control the flow of gases, which are re-routed through the intake system, where they are re-combusted with fresh intake air and fuel. On a correctly functioning EGR system, this lowers undesirable exhaust emissions.

The problem with these systems, particularly with diesel vehicles, is that excess hydrocarbons are produced during the combustion process. These hydrocarbons deposit themselves on the EGR valve and periphery pipe work where the EGR routes back into the intake system. Over time, this clogs and eventually blocks the EGR valve and the associated pipework.

Additional Source of Deposit Build-up!

It is important to note that the carbon buildup you see in an EGR system and other emission control components is not only from the combustion process. In most cases, it’s a combination of combustion-produced hydrocarbons and also carbons and deposits from the crankcase oil. This is where many fail to correctly arrest deposit build-up on the EGR after it has been cleaned or replaced. More on this later…

What happens is engine oil can bypass the piston rings, valve stem seals and crankcase breather system (PCV). That oil is then consumed during the combustion process, but it isn’t fully combusted. The unburned oil and fuel are both recycled and deposited within the EGR. The oil in particular will polymerize onto the metal surfaces due to the very strong affinity between oil and metal. This newly formed surface then acts as a “sponge” for all further particulates in the recirculating exhaust gases.

Basically, what you have is a combination of bypassed oil and unburned fuel deposited within the EGR system. This turns into a solid, which builds up and clogs the EGR valve and associated pipework, causing faulty operation.

If the EGR valve begins to stick or is blocked up, the solenoid used to operate it will draw more current to open it. The ECU detects that condition and throws an engine warning light.

The symptoms of a faulty EGR include:

Hesitation
Stumbling
Excessive emissions/smoke during acceleration
Engine warning lights

As deposits begin to accumulate this restricts the flow of gases and disturbs the fuel mixture. The ECU is expecting a certain amount of recirculating gases as the EGR valve transitions from closed to open and visa-versa. These gases are not delivered as anticipated hence the disturbance in the air/fuel ratio. This can result in hesitation, stumbling and excess emissions, particularly during acceleration.
Natural Carbon Removal

Now, there is a natural cleaning mechanism for carbon and most additive manufacturers won’t tell you this. If you’re able to improve the quality of combustion, and are thus able to produce cleaner exhaust gases during the combustion process, these cleaner exhaust gases will naturally scavenge and remove carbon. This is also the case with many emission control components attached to the exhaust system, such as the hot side of the turbocharger, catalytic converter, or a diesel particulate filter.

You can naturally clean these areas. Many additives you see on the market today are essentially just fuel system cleaners and combustion catalysts. They might be promoted and marketed as EGR cleaners, DPF cleaners and so on, but they’re really nothing more than fuel system cleaners. What they do is restore the efficiency of the fuel system and by doing so, improve the efficiency of the combustion, which reduces hydrocarbon production. In addition, some products contain a fuel catalyst technology that in itself will lower the hydrocarbons produced. What you’re left with is cleaner exhaust gases, which will help naturally remove the carbon from these mentioned areas. Except for a very few products that contain patented technologies where molecules are activated during combustion (more on this later), such cleaners do not directly clean these areas, as the chemistry is destroyed during the combustion process.

The Problem with Natural Removal and EGR Valves

Now, this natural cleaning mechanism is not always effective when cleaning the EGR system. The reason for this is that when cleaning carbon from your engine, heat is the primary factor. It is important that there is sufficient heat. Heat, combined with the cleaner, recycled exhaust gases, helps remove carbon. The problem with the EGR is that the gases are usually cooled by the time they reach the valve and the periphery pipework. Therefore, the natural cleaning mechanism is not always as effective with EGRs, so you have to take alternative action.

Alternative Cleaning for EGR Valves and Systems

Unfortunately, the most effective way to clean an EGR is to remove it and clean it manually (if you have access to it). You’ll remove the EGR and the periphery pipework. Scrape off as much carbon as you can manually, then use a quality EGR aerosol cleaner such as Ecotec Soot Cleaner Aerosol, to clean the remainder and reassemble the system.

If you don’t have easy access to the EGR valve, you can use an in situ aerosol-based EGR cleaner that you can either spray into the EGR pipework or through the air intake and clean the EGR this way. However, particularly with diesel engines, you must be very careful. You don’t want to damage the engine. If you’re in doubt, you should let a trained professional carry out this procedure for you. For this we recommend the Ecotec Turbo Net and EGR Cleaner Aerosol.

Once the EGR is clean and operational it is important to take the steps necessary to prevent further carbon buildup. While you can never stop it completely, what you can do is maintain a manageable level of carbon that the engine can naturally consume without the deposits becoming excessive. If you were to remove the EGR, what you’d be looking for is a very fine layer of carbon that you can scratch off with your nail. Anything more than that would be considered excessive.

Maintain and Protect

1. Firstly, use a high quality polyetheramine-based fuel system cleaner and carbon remover to ensure injector and combustion efficiency is restored. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a clogged EGR valve soon after. For this we recommend Archoil AR6400 or AR6400-D MAX for diesel engines.

2. Secondly, you need a VERY high quality engine oil and/or oil additive that helps prevent oil bypassing the crankcase breather system or piston rings and polymerizing with the EGR system. You must tackle the problem from both the fuel system end and also the crankcase oil. For this I would recommend the Bardahl C60 fullerene range of engine oils as the advanced nano additive pack has proven to keep the EGR and similar systems clean. Alternatively use a high quality oil additive pack such as Archoil AR9100 or AR2300. These have shown to prevent polymerisation and even remove carbon from these areas in some cases.

3. Thirdly, and particularly if the majority of your driving is short or start/stop, use a high quality ongoing fuel additive containing an effective combustion modifier or fuel catalyst. For this we recommend Archoil AR6200 (petrol) or AR6900-D MAX (diesel). What this will do is improve the quality of the combustion and lower the amount of hydrocarbons being produced and thus recycled through the system, especially when the engine is in its warm-up cycle. Most of the time you’ll only use a little bit of the product at a time and a single bottle will last for multiple tanks of fuel.

Get Out and Drive

Finally, it’s important to make you aware our view is that most of today’s vehicles are commonly mis-sold. They are simply not designed for the short journeys that many people use them for – around town driving, shopping runs, school runs, etc. If the vehicle is not permitted to get up to temperature on a frequent basis, it’s inevitable that hydrocarbons will be produced and deposited throughout the system.

Because of the lack of heat, it will be very difficult for the engine and the emissions control components to naturally manage carbon within the system. Therefore, using the correct types of oil, fuel and fuel additives is essential to keeping the engine running efficiently.

If you require any expert advice or help then please don’t hesitate to contact us and either I or a member of my team will be pleased to help.

For rapid fuel system cleaning

AR6400 (petrol) or AR6400-D (diesel)

Fuel conditioning, protection and carbon reduction

Hybrogen or AR6900-D MAX

Nano oil additive pack to reduce circulating oil build-up in the EGR

AR9100

43 thoughts on “EGR Cleaning and EGR Cleaners”

umair iqbal says:

May 28, 2018 at 10:02 am

hi

have you ever heard of a throttle body cleaner causing any damage in the engine, because a carbon deposit has dislodged and ended up in the engine and has scratched up the cylinder wall or something

basically my f10 m5 is idling rough and i was thinking to run some cleaner through it, what do you think?

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  June 26, 2018 at 11:37 am
  
  Very unlikely with deposits in the intake itself. The only potential risk is with hard, baked-on deposit from the inlet valves. Again, the risk is small.
  
  Reply
alan ashby says:

December 1, 2017 at 2:01 pm

The ‘engine management light’illuminated on my 2007 Mazda MX-5 without any obvious deterioration in performance. It was checked-over by a Mazda dealership who reported that the EGR valve was defective. I accessed this website as I had not previously heard of an EGR valve (I know now!), with the dealership quoting £227 plus VAT to fit a new one. It seems a worthwhile cost, to me, to replace the unit rather than scrape clean the old one.

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  December 4, 2017 at 9:38 am
  
  Definitely attempt to clean the old one first.
  
  Reply
2. Steve Shaw says:
  
  March 5, 2018 at 8:27 pm
  
  If you can get the old egr valve out easily, then just get some carb cleaner and an old toothbrush (wear gloves!) and you will be astonished how clean you can get it, just takes your time to remove and refit.
  
  I wish I could easily get to the EGR/cooler on my VAG but sadly it’s a rotten 4hr job behind the engine, so I can’t give it a clean every year.
  
  Reply
Rod Green says:

August 21, 2017 at 3:29 pm

Having read all the reports on turbo / egr cleaner as to it being the answer to all the issues regarding cleaning of these components, I find from first hand experience (being a motor engineer) these claims seem a little extreme. Having used turbo cleaner with NO satisfactory results, but have had 100% results by doing the only successful method of removal of component, strip, clean, refit. or in extreme cases renew. Works every time. (DON’T CUT CORNERS) Do the job the correct way.

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  August 22, 2017 at 9:39 am
  
  I agree there is no substitute for a manual strip down and clean. However, EGR cleaners offer some benefit providing air flow is not completely blocked. It can be sufficient to free up the valve on engines where the EGR and periphery pipework is labour intensive to access.
  
  The real issue here is education and many Technicians fail to address the root cause (oil quality, fuel quality and driving style) leaving the customer to face the same problem later on. Higher quality oil can be used as well as a catalyst based fuel conditioner to help neutralise the recirculating carbons.
  
  Reply
Tee says:

July 4, 2017 at 11:22 pm

Audi A5 3l diseal my engine lights keeps coming on. So I took it to the Garage and the diagnosis showed up that there was a fault with the coolant pump 2 open circuit and also showed code EGR System insufficient flow so I had these parts replaced and then the faults cleared. A few days later ( 1 week) as I was driving along the engine suddenly raved on high without me pressing hard on the throttle, a few minutes on as I carried on driving – the engine lights came back on again.
What do you think the faults might be?

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  July 10, 2017 at 12:20 pm
  
  Apologies but unable to assist without inspecting the vehicle. I would take it back to whoever carried out the EGR replacement work.
  
  Reply
2. d says:
  
  September 9, 2017 at 7:47 pm
  
  turbo overboost.
  
  Reply
Gordon Roe says:

May 18, 2017 at 12:35 pm

The glow plug warning light is flashing on my 2012 Skoda Yeti 2.0 Tdi. 46K. My garage diagnosed that it needs a new EGR valve (£800). I have added the bottle of AR6400-D Max to a full tank of diesel. Will this cure the problem or will I still need to have the EGR valve replaced?

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  May 18, 2017 at 1:21 pm
  
  Have the EGR inspected and cleaned. If it is difficult to access, hence high labour costs, then have the Technician try an aerosol based product.
  
  Reply
Tim says:

May 11, 2017 at 7:41 am

I have a 2014 520d BMW with 48k miles, 3x bmw services, driven on mix of roads and standard diesel – runs just fine. In you opinion would an aerosol based clearner be of benefit for this vehicle and if so is there anything I should be wary of in application, particularly with regards to MAF sensor – the various Ecotec youtube videos look straight forward, despite being in French.

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  May 11, 2017 at 10:58 am
  
  They are useful as they also help clean the air intake and back of intake valves. However, an overly contaminated EGR is best removed and cleaned manually. CAUTION: Always spray at a point AFTER the MAF sensor. It requires patience: Short bursts ONLY allowing the engine to consume the product. Failure to do this can result in the engine running away and causing substantial damage.
  
  Reply
  1. Tim says:
    
    May 24, 2017 at 3:04 pm
    
    Thanks for the response. If I disconnect the MAF then this will trigger a fault in the ECU presumably. I could perhaps insert a pipe to allow a second airflow path which by passes the MAF, however again this might disrupt airflow sufficiently to trigger a fault being logged? It would also only partially allow the manual throttling of the airflow which is illustrated in the Ecotec youtube videos.
    
    Can you suggest an application method which would avoid logging a MAF fault?
    
    If one were to spray before the mAF then what are the implications of this and could once simply use MAF cleaner immediately afterwards without risk of damage?
    
    Reply
    1. Oilem says:
      
      May 31, 2017 at 12:48 pm
      
      Most will keep the MAF connected but spray into the intake at a point after the MAF.
      
      Reply
Michal says:

April 10, 2017 at 12:30 am

Hi, I’ve got a problem with high oil consumption in my Mazda 2.0 petrol, I’ve been told that ar2300 can help to move stuck piston rings. The question is how long is safe to drive with additive in oil? Can it be couple thousands miles?

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  April 12, 2017 at 9:38 am
  
  It is safe to use for the duration of the engine oil lifecycle.
  
  Reply
Barry Furniss says:

March 2, 2017 at 11:28 pm

Hi, Can I only use AR6900 in my Mondeo tdci 130 as a fuel additive,or is it ok to use AR6200?

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  March 20, 2017 at 10:01 am
  
  You can use either but AR6900-D would be better for that engine.
  
  Reply
Steve Inch says:

February 7, 2017 at 10:35 pm

Hi Andy,
I have a Mitsubishi L200 pick up 09 plate and the engine is down on power,the engine management light is not on all the time but even when it’s not on the performance is still down. Is the EGR valve likely to be the cause and if so what would you recommend as a solution?

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  February 21, 2017 at 4:52 pm
  
  Difficult to say based on the information given. I would recommend having the error codes read first.
  
  Reply
charles whitmill says:

November 6, 2016 at 5:17 am

I recently bought a 2015 Kenworth T680 truck with 139,000 miles my current reading is 163,634 miles.Should I start using the product now as a part of my preventive maintenance program? Note I have a Cummins ISX15 under the hood

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  November 9, 2016 at 8:58 am
  
  Sure, regular use of AR6900-D MAX would be a good choice.
  
  Reply
eelis says:

September 23, 2016 at 10:44 pm

Hi
New to this forum. I have a 52 plate Mitsubishi Spacestar. Last year engine management light came on, took to garage and it was treated with “temporary fix”. Run smoothly for next 12 months and then problem again. Car lost her “mojo” resisting acceleration and when pressure put on engine engine management light would light up and release again when no demand on engine. Took to garage today, EGR totally had it and on revving the engine, masses of soot left on road. Booked in for repair in 2 days time. Is she still safe to drive? Been driving for 3 weeks with light on/off, have I damaged engine? Thoughts please.

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  September 25, 2016 at 11:03 am
  
  Without inspecting the vehicle I couldn’t confirm if it is safe to drive. However, an EGR fault is unlikely to cause any long term damage.
  
  Reply
keith thompson says:

July 12, 2016 at 7:12 pm

Hi guys i have recently changed my motor home for a fiat based Hymer 2.3 multijet engine.
After just a couple of weeks the engine management light came on so i had someone connect it to a diagnostics device and the code related to an egr problem.
would any of your products help cure this if so which one and where could i purchase it and also a product which will help keep my engine clean.

Many Thanks

Keith (07817328560) A call would be great any time

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  July 13, 2016 at 12:07 pm
  
  Get it cleaned manually and then use AR6900-D in the fuel and AR9100 in with the oil to prevent reoccurrence.
  
  Reply
Nigel Groves says:

July 11, 2016 at 9:12 pm

Hi there,
I’m considering the purchase of a 11 plate Volvo 80 2.4 diesel but I’m a bit concerned that the mileage at 46000 is low and depending on use,there could be carbon/ash/ build up problems- if I purchase it . What Archoil products do you recommend and more critically, what product do I apply first. Many Thanks. Nigel

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  July 13, 2016 at 12:09 pm
  
  Hi, regular use of AR6900-D or AR6400-D every 5k miles, depending on convenience. Regular use of AR6900-D is best but some don’t want the hassle of adding a product with every fill up so use AR6400-D now and then instead.
  
  Reply
Keith Johnson says:

February 19, 2016 at 8:25 pm

Hello Andy, touring around France and spain the engine light came on and it was on and off intermitently but mostly on. when the light was out that only happened when we stopped for for a break. If the problem is the EGR (as the hand book suggests) would AR6400D help. The vehicle is a motorhome with about 18000 mls on the clock, we service every year even though we dont do the recommended service mileage.
Many thanks
Keith

Reply
1. Oilem says:
  
  February 20, 2016 at 6:47 pm
  
  Probably 1 in 4 chance of making any significant difference if it is in fact the EGR system. Cleaning manually is the best bet followed by a fuel conditioner/catalyst to lower the fuel carbons and an oil additive or higher quality oil to reduce oil deposits in the EGR.
  
  Reply
Mohammed rahman says:

November 1, 2015 at 1:50 am

Hi Andy I have a vw passat cc 2011. 87k and an error has come up on the dash reading back as egr. Can you please contact me as I’d be happy to have it manually cleaned before having it entirely replaced. You may contact me via email or by phone on 07732522711. Thanks

Reply
1. Power Enhancer says:
  
  November 27, 2015 at 4:04 pm
  
  Hi, contacted, let me know how you get on.
  
  Reply
Roger says:

October 15, 2015 at 4:32 pm

I had the spanner light on in Zarira 1.9 DTI 120 2006. I found the pipe from dpf to sensor had fractured, replaced light cleared. I then used the AR6400 D. I did many runs at 3500 rpm in 3rd to ensure plenty of heat. Engine runs fine it has requested one regen which it performed, not much smoke this time. My only problem now I have the engine management light on (engine shape symbol) I had this reset but returns. I have now used the tank of fuel with AR6400 D in. The fault code suggests an EGR problem. I have bought AR 6500 for next stage but would like any thoughts on my situation so far and next steps please.
Regards
Roger

Reply
1. Andy Archer says:
  
  October 16, 2015 at 10:32 am
  
  On that engine I would recommend having the EGR system/valve cleaned manually and then using a fuel conditioner and AR9100 in with the oil to help reduce further build-up from both the fuel system and lubricating oil.
  
  Reply
  1. Roger says:
    
    November 3, 2015 at 2:57 pm
    
    I followed your advice, removed EGR valve, it was stuck, freed up and gave it a good clean. It took a few journeys but the engine management light now gone and all running well, thanks for help.
    Roger
    
    Reply
sean alker says:

March 31, 2015 at 9:07 am

Hi i have a ford fiesta 1.6 econetic iv taken it to a garage as the car seemed to be struggling when it was cold at first start up in first and second gear like it was going to stall the garage have put it on the diagonstic machine but its not bringing back any conclusive results so they suggested its either the injectors or the egr valve but the injectors are siezed in and there saying they will need to just replace the egr valve to even see if that works but not guaranting that its the problem. To then go onto the injectors and check each one but having to get somebody with a hydraulic puller to get them out so im going to be spending in excess of £400 to £500 just to diagnose the problem they have suggested trying first and egr cleaner like diesal treatment which i first tried with redex deisal treatment but after time it didnt do anything.

Reply
1. Andy Archer says:
  
  April 9, 2015 at 11:35 am
  
  Hi Sean. The garage should be able to diagnose this. I would have the EGR removed and cleaned manually. I would also replace the fuel filter if it hasn’t been changed in a while. You could use AR6400-D as a process of elimination in case there are injector deposits. Does the engine start easy enough or does it take a few cranks?
  
  Reply
Tyron Coullie says:

March 29, 2015 at 6:02 pm

My mk3 1.8 ford Galaxy tdci judders when accelerating. I have had the DMF and clutch changed by evens Halshaw ford. This did not help at all the problem still persists. Not only that, the diff carrier and carrier bearing has been changed as well as the drive shaft and they tried doing the wheel balancing and even went so far as to change all four wheels thinking there could be a flat spot on one of the tiers. But still the problem persists. The glow plugs have been checked. The suspension has been checked and the engine mountings. A friend of mine suggested that the EGR valve could be the culprit. I don’t have any management lights on. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks. Tyron

Reply
1. Andy Archer says:
  
  March 30, 2015 at 10:12 am
  
  Hi, it is really difficult to diagnose without inspecting the vehicle. I would need to listen and feel the judder. If it does feel engine related then inspecting the EGR would be a good idea as would using a high quality fuel system cleaner as a process of elimination. However, any competent mechanic should be able to diagnose this.
  
  Reply
2. Andrew Williams says:
  
  January 25, 2016 at 6:36 pm
  
  Try cleaning the MAF sensor.
  
  Reply
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